The Voice Sensory was opened up to mend one LED. H8 came on only when pressed and failed to come on after the chessboard flexed. A common problem on this type of Fidelity board. Minor resoldering was all that was required.

After a while I wished I hadn’t opened up the Voice Sensory because it takes quite a while. There are a number of parts to disassemble, and potential for causing more problems than you solve, if you get it wrong. So my recommendation is to leave them alone unless the repair is more worthwhile than this one.

You open a Voice Sensory by first :-
(1) Easing off the felt pads on the base which hide plastic prongs which latch onto the wooden housing. The prongs can be seen sticking up at the edge of the plastic housing shown in the first photo.
(2) If there is a plastic grommet holding the prong nearest the display in place, remove it, then prise the prongs clear of the wooden housing one by one.
(3) Before the case can be split apart you have to take apart the connector with the long metal prongs (top left on the main PCB) and prise off the six little wheel shaped retaining washers to free the display and rear keypad from the case.
(4) Detach the two push-on ribbon cables also.

This gets you to the point shown in the first and second photos. The third photo just shows the main PCB for information.
 

To get at the LEDs it is necessary to ease this second PCB off of the white plastic posts. Then with easy access to the LEDs h8 was soon resoldered.

Fitting the whole lot back together takes rather longer.

The last two photos just show the h8 LED now working properly after pressing the rook position verification keys.

There is nothing difficult there. It just requires some care and patience.